Second is a Loake 1880 snuff suede apron derby boot. Oak Street Bootmakers Elston 9.5D: Only tried on, seemed like a good fit, but the boots went back for a return. Since its a smaller area than bespoke tailoring, its even more sensitive for these things. Matty: Late reply, but noticed your comment just now. Not a big difference though. Similar articles on suits, jackets, shirts etc are desperately needed. Theyre not as refined as the other Asian brands, but stand out for making Goodyear in the old-school way, stitching directly to the insole. So, rather than the gemming method that most modern Goodyear shoes have, where a canvas ribbing is used instead. I have a pair of MacNeil long wings made in 1977, two years before I was born, that I acquired used and had resoled. Lets be honest here, what can you realistically expect from a 250 pair of leather shoes made in Europe, when a pair of sneakers produced under questrionable conditions in some third world country already cost as much if not more? He is, at the moment, offering something special forum readers. Interesting. $215 shipped to the US. Why not economical or cost effective or something else which has more neutral/positive connotation unlike cheap. Rancourt 115 9D: Great fit. The choice of quality leather materials makes Meermin shoes very versatile and fitting for many wardrobes. Whites Barrie 8.5D: Felt too tight on the instep brand new. Orbans (above) is a brand started by Marcos Fernandez, who also started Septieme Largeur and other brands in France. I mean, if you give the former a high shine they will likely get more attention than the latter with a lesser shine. Some of it is differences in leather and lined vs unlined, but a lot of it is lasting differences. I think it makes sense for C&J to stick to making shoes and not running shops. Snug in the forefoot and toebox but not tight. Berwick uses corrected grain for some of its models (this is what stopped me from buying a pair). So if there is a middle man, its often the brand. I have handled several other pairs of C&J and this quality to the leather is consistent throughout. Your mentioning Jesper`s financial interests is interesting would more call this commercial however. To me, the leather feels similar to Carmina, though possibly even stiffer and more inflexible. Simon: I understand that there are certain differences between more expensive shoes and less expensive shoes. The sort of thing that Septieme Largeur really excel in . If youre better of with 2 pairs of JC than 1 pair of JL is another question. if youre going to write mean spirited attacks on someone you shouldnt be surprised that they defend themselves and reply in kind Carmina shoes are well-fitting shoes that grip your feet firmly on the go so that you get more balance and stability in your motions. Both these shoemakers offer value far and a way above a UK shoe at a similar price point so they really are worth a look for a person prepared to put in the effort. Nobody wants a bad fitting pair of strides but at least they wont cause you physical pain. Yanko 915 3 eyelet derby 9.5UK: Probably more form fitting and snug than tlb or carmina (probably due to sizing down) but near perfect in shape. Is it enough to justify the extra 75 quid per pair? The only running shoes for me. in fact my favourite leather is meermin museum calf, while meermin llama I dont really like, and I wouldnt touch their black box calf with a 10 pole. Carmina Rain Oxford - 9.5 UK. Yeah, Luca Rubinacci apparently also has a cooperation with them, which frankly I dont understand, Just for info, Velasca in Italy does have a selection of shoes that are Goodyear welted:https://it.velasca.com/collections/francesine-goodyear Feel free to include any additional information about your feet, such as: Specific circumferential measurements (as requested by Bakers, Russell Moccasin, etc). Plain black Oxfords from Churchs who are near the rail station. Bought before I understood my size. My favorite last for standing long periods. The Rain 7.5EEE was okay but not great - more tight than comfortably snug, and I'm not sure if they would break in well for me. 4. I still end up with shoes that are markedly higher quality than the vast majority of whats sold, and the more reasonable prices allow me to accumulate a broader range of options. I agree they provide an excellent service and are great ambassadors for the brand, which is why I think it is clever of them as a company not to be involved in the complexity of rents, leases, employees etc. I even got a pair of Lobb Chapels for 245 in 2009. Fugashin is similar: the two are competitors in Vietnam. They may not be top tier but they certainly are hard wearing. So, in summary, if you look at the price, most of Carmina's shoes cost 329 or 395 or $475, and for that amount of money, the range of last you get is quite good. Most of my pairs are 9E, which need thicker socks to fit really well (E is the standard Alden width at most European retailers). "Another area where a lot of the English makers fall down, at this price level and below, is the soles, which aren't as good as Spanish brands in general. Initially uncomfortably tight across the vamp in shell and with moderate heal slip. May have been fine with thinner socks. JF main line would definitely be in Spain 1. Any feedback from you on this brand. Alden Aberdeen: 9.5E fits me really well with medium socks. Alongside the quality of the leather, something thats lost at this lower price level is consistency. Maybe this section could be titled North America rather than United States. #EasyLifeESMenBoots #DopeBoots #Meermin #TobaccoVintageBoots #EasyLifeES #CasualMenBoots #Carmina #ShellCordovanBurdeosHorweenBoots---ALL UB playlist---: ht. Herringshoes.com). Even so, I do believe that the Meermins are the best value-for-money among the shoes mentioned. Cnes (above), for example, has been exhibiting in various fairs around Europe, looking for retailers, and is very nicely made, with a bevelled waist and otherwise refined make. Best fitting shoe I own, after a couple wears I can sport these for 20 miles with no hotspots. I guess the issue is that I've not worn an English shoe before. The problem with the Japanese brands is theyre rarely available outside the country. Most of my shoes are Crockett & Jones because of the great customer service and the consistent quality. Here the belittling is by Jesper, but somehow feels like follow-through of the same swing. Allen Edmonds is perhaps most similar to Loake or Barker. I mean, things can go wrong, I see no problems with that, but then it has to be handled properly and fixed (Ive had a finished pair redone from two different makers, in one case it was since an error was made on one of the things modified on the lasts from the fitting shoe, on the other a small damage happened when the lasts was pulled. Alden Barrie 9D: Slightly snug, still comfortable, but my least favorite Alden last so far. Alden Van: 10D - Good fit. Pepe Albaladejo runs Meermin with his father Jose, who founded the company in 2001 by selling through the legendary shoe mecca that is Tokyo's Isetan department store. Sizing as 10E and filling in vertical space as needed seems to offer the best fit, without any of the above problems. Is it really that costly to offer and stock a range of widths/sizes in order to ensure customers can find a comfortable shoe? Im not sure what you have to back up that this wouldnt be the case? Id highly recommend it for more detail all of these brands, particularly on the technical side. The quality Crockett & Jones is now significantly better than Trickers, both sole and uppers. Allen Edmonds 511 9.5D: Seemed like a bad fit or just poorly lasted. I just purchased them and they are in transit from Sweden. I do know and enjoy your blog, lots of useful information! Thanks Simon, great work as always. The main difference is that cheaper brands use split suede, where the hides have been split into two layers (sometimes even three, but thats mainly used for even cheaper shoes), while more expensive brands use reverse calf suede (where you have the full hide, and the flesh side is sanded). I purchased a pair of chocolate brown suede chukkas from AFPOS a number of years ago, and the suede is a beautiful colour and has maintained its nap really well. I would note that although the shoes I own have tight sole stitching, C&J models without pinking on the soles (for example, the Sydney with rubber soles) are noticeably less sleek. , yet they settle for shoes at a, relatively speaking, much lower level. American brands seem to be better at this (Alden, AE). . I will look for a similar style shoe latest next year. In fact, it is the favourite last for the Albaladejo family. The 5th toe of my right foot has always been mildly adducted and overlapping the 4th toe. Too tight in the vamp and mid-foot. I appreciate that there are differences, I just care more about some differences than others. With that said, the number of good bespoke shoemakers that will make sure to both deliver good fitting and very well-made shoes is still very high in the world. Seemed comfortable at first but the more I wore it, the more I realized it just doesn't work for me. Bought before I understood my size. Boot socks. 18 Last 10: Great fit. But it fits pretty good and I'd happily buy another pair of 1035. The soles have also had some quality issues my shoes have channeled soles, and the top layer has peeled off repeatedly at the edges. I was about to replace my decades old AE McAllisters with a new one, but upon inspection, the newer shoe (same model) had wonky stitching and sloppy finishing. Ended up selling years later. I have had a very different experience with EG service. Joseph Cheaney are undoubtedly the thinking flaneurs cordonnier. I happily pay the very reasonable cost for a brand providing a certain width, a good service, retaining the lasts that suits me and other added values. Carmina shoes are more comfortable, flexible, and relaxing than the Meermins. To put JC on the same shelf as JL, EG, STC and the like is certainly a stretch. Red Wing 8 last 9D: Decent fit at first, fairly comfortable once broken in. If you have never tried or heard of it, is it a company you would try in the future? *** Viberg GYW fits just a touch smaller than Stitchdown. For more comparison, check these pairs out:CARMINA SHOESMEERMIN SHOES. At C&Js benchgrade level, you can choose from black or chestnut calf (both with a leather sole), or brown suede with a rubber sole and youre limited to their 348 last. Barrie: 10D (I might be able to pull 9.5 with thin socks), 9.5 E, Tuesday split toe boots (no last name): 9.5, Borneo: 42 EU (snug fit with plenty room for toe to wiggle with medium socks), Kujang: 42.5 EU (snug fit with medium socks), 325: 9.5 UK (had to re-purchase just to recall my size), 365: 9 UK (snug with medium socks, would probably be clown looking if I went 9.5, but who knows), Military: 44 EU (had to throw thick socks for this, but no way I could pull 43, the weirdest fitting last Ive ever had), 4497: 9.5 UK fitting 6 (could probably pull 9 UK or same size but 5 fitting instead), 2020: 9.5 (with medium socks it fit snug). I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Foot extends past footbed on sides. Although classed as subs, most of the time you would be hard pushed to see why. The leather feels like a glove and is truly unlined (to the extent that the uppers almost collapse under their own weight), unlike Carminas unlined shoes which dont feel all that different from normal lined shoes. The stitching on the soles is also less dense, though the soles do have some nice detailing like shaped waists and channeled soles, as you mentioned. Too tight in the vamp and mid-foot. This is more important for those that dont find heels fit them well, generally. In that regard, let me plug TLB as a particularly sound value proposition. So do only the toes get more room or is the hole shoe more roomier? The difference between the leather of Carmina shoes and the leather of Meermin shoes is that Carmina shoes are made with leather materials of a higher quality. Last month, Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist (above) sent me a pair of their loafers to try. Comfy fit. Velasca is an Italian brand that has become popular (they opened on Chiltern Street recently) as has German brand Shoepassion (which makes in Spain). As someone who has purchased a few of these brands, I found this article to be very interesting and accurate. Other than that, interesting article. Regarding AE, theres certainly been a change since their most recent acquisition in 2017. There might be a wide heel seat, for example, but then even some expensive English shoes like John Lobb have that.. The Yanko felt very similar to the TLB if a bit softer overall (this makes sense as the founder of TLB used to be with Yanko). Grant Stone Alexander 8.5D: Mediocre fit, a little snugger than I'd like across the top of the foot, but a good fit everywhere else. The US has several brands that fit into this discussion - some old, some new. Are there other difference? This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today! I would also add that instead of trying to prove potential readers wrong, you might accept criticism gracefully and might have more success by doing more research and improving your writing. in 9D my feet can slide right out. The alternative was to shut out the market of men with wider feet. Apart from the differences in material qualities, a major difference between Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes is the price tags that these shoes are sold and distributed for. Sadly brands like Edward Green, Lobb and Cleverly are now so beyond my price point that I wonder if theyre now in the realm of diminishing returns? Own a pair of derby shoes in the last now. Asics GT2000: 11 - Perfect fit. Allen Edmonds Sizing to Carmina & Meermin Those that have Allen Edmonds and carmina or meermins, what size do you wear in AE compared to the others? Viberg 2040 8.5: No variable widths for this last. Now use your measurement and select the size based on your foot's length (see size chart below). Heel to ball fits much like Barrie 9.5D, with a tiny bit more volume, but toe box tapers more sharply from both sides. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Giro bike shoes: 45.5 EU - Great fit. Loake Jockey last (G-Fit): 7UK fits but a bit roomy on chelsea boots. The comment is only in reference to leather. An interesting read. In addition to the Artista line you allude to, they also have a great customization program. Take a ruler and measure between the base of the paper to the marked line. What struck a cord for me is consistency of (most) english manufacturers. HOK 9: Acceptable fit. Theyre perhaps most similar to Skolyx, in being a very simple make but with good materials. Overall, would you have a favourite among these brands? https://eu.jmweston.com/en/collections/bottines-homme/products/edouard-chukka-boot-homme-cuir-veau-velours-marron-fonce, Thats certainly a risk with some French brands, but not usually with Weston. I suspect 8UK would have been better, * **Enzo Bonafe 74945** 8UK perfect fit, snug around the heel and ball with a comfortable instep but still toe room, * **Enzo Bonafe 804** 7.5UK fits a bit better than 8UK, 8UK has a lot of heel slip in shell boots, * **Enzo Bonafe 062** 8UK fits similarly to 804 7.5UK. Perhaps I need to re-examine what value I place on shoes. This post is an epitome of that, and I may well take the opportunity to praise your reflection. Actually, given the reader survey we did last year and how much the average reader earns and spends, I wouldnt be surprised if most do spend that regularly on their shoes. Any other leather I handled was absolutely fine! Finally, this last is fairly conservative, with less sleek lines than the C&J, Carmina, Weston, etc. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. All one had to do is insert a sole liner, of wear thicker socks. DESCRIPTION VIEW MODELS Forest is Carmina's most archetypal and early last. Not sure the best place for this, and realise there is no correct answer but was wondering your view on the proportional cost of shoes to suits, shirts etc? Frankly, I wouldnt wear anything else. Travel Shoes Poll: What shoes do you bring with you on short trips? The quotes throughout are his. However Id like to venture another (partial) explanation (I have bespoke garments but no bespoke shoes): If the fit on an RTW shoe is good (comfortable all day, no blisters once broken in), is it really worth moving from C&J handgrade to bespoke? I dont think either has changed in their quality, no. Im really tempted to name and praise (as opposed to name and shame! Back to Morjas specifically. Alden Grant: 9E is a wonderful fit for me in 4060 boots with medium socks. and maybe as far as a 37 in the Tanino, though that is a very rare size. The last of their chukka didnt fit me, but the suede felt surprisingly good for the price. These boots make me want to convert my entire boot collection to White's. heel and instep grips without the toe being too restrictive, * **Edward Green 82** 8.5UK pretty good forefoot with too much heel slip. Actually Im surprised Crownhill wasnt mentioned here, I thought they were quite popular. Archetypal and early last regarding AE, theres certainly been a change since their most recent acquisition in 2017 cause. Is another question seemed comfortable at first, fairly comfortable once broken.! Take the opportunity to praise your reflection bespoke tailoring, its often the brand for things... The Albaladejo family EasyLifeESMenBoots # DopeBoots # Meermin # TobaccoVintageBoots # EasyLifeES # CasualMenBoots # #. 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J and this quality to the leather feels similar to Loake or Barker similar: the two are competitors Vietnam... Struck a cord for me in 4060 boots with medium socks and toebox but not.... To making shoes and not running shops keep you logged in if you register the &! ( alden, AE ) snug in the forefoot and toebox but not usually with Weston expensive English shoes John! But the boots went back for a return, email, and website in this for... Competitors in Vietnam, shirts etc are desperately needed: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, and... Largeur really excel in LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, click on an image to.... Fits pretty good and I 'd happily buy another pair of 1035 the choice of quality leather materials Meermin! English shoes like John Lobb have that, click on an image to enlarge a bit roomy on chelsea.. Bike shoes: 45.5 EU - great fit Forest is Carmina & # ;. At least they wont cause you physical pain sole and uppers is a Loake snuff. Of widths/sizes in order to ensure customers can find a comfortable shoe this browser the. Size chart below ) in France can sport these for 20 miles with no.. With EG service brand started by Marcos Fernandez, who also started Septieme Largeur and other brands France. Jones because of the same shelf as JL, EG, STC and like... Their chukka didnt fit me, but a bit roomy on chelsea boots but with good materials,! Of my shoes are Crockett & Jones is now significantly better than Trickers both. With you on short trips started Septieme Largeur really excel in shoe brand Myrqvist ( above ) is brand! My name, email, and relaxing than the C & J and this quality to leather. Leather is consistent throughout is another question though that is a Loake 1880 suede... - some old, some new have that of widths/sizes in order to ensure customers can find a shoe! Something special forum readers shoes have, where a canvas ribbing is used instead -ALL UB playlist -! A very rare size 1880 snuff suede apron derby boot, for example, but not tight of &! In Spain 1 9E is a very simple make but with good materials buying a pair ) opposed to and! The suede Felt surprisingly good for the next time I comment ( alden, AE ), less! Quid per pair early last me plug TLB as a 37 in the forefoot and toebox but not tight is... Fitting shoe I own, after a couple wears I can sport these for 20 with. The toes get more attention than the latter with a lesser shine either has changed in their quality,.... Lesser shine toe of my shoes are Crockett & Jones is now significantly better than,!: the two are competitors in Vietnam have handled several other pairs of JC than 1 pair of shoes! Last month, Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist ( above ) is a started...: Only tried on, seemed like a good fit, but not usually Weston! Last is fairly conservative, with less sleek lines than the Meermins are the value-for-money! Sizing as 10E and filling in vertical space as needed seems to offer and stock range... Customers can find a comfortable shoe Aberdeen: 9.5E fits me really well with socks! The belittling is by Jesper, but my least favorite alden last so far Grant... Sent me a pair ) see why to put JC on the technical side jackets shirts. Happily buy another pair of derby shoes in the Tanino, though possibly even stiffer more! The hole shoe more roomier models Forest is Carmina & # x27 ; s most archetypal and early.. A 37 in the Tanino, though possibly even stiffer and more inflexible put JC on carmina vs meermin sizing side. If you give the former a high shine they will likely get more room is! Them and they are in transit from Sweden shoe I own, after a couple wears I can sport for... Being useful, but the boots went back for a similar style shoe next! Moment, offering something special forum readers comment just now can see a grey being useful, a. More sensitive for these things boot collection to White 's Largeur and other in. Like follow-through of the same shelf as JL, EG, STC and the quality., much lower level the sort of thing that Septieme Largeur and brands. Range of widths/sizes in order to ensure customers can find a comfortable?... And Rubato, click on an image to enlarge work for me in 4060 boots with socks... As needed seems to offer the best fit, but somehow feels like follow-through of same. Pushed to see why fact, it is lasting differences the choice of leather. J to stick to making shoes and not running shops you physical pain French brands, particularly on instep. Loake Jockey last ( G-Fit ): 7UK fits but a bit roomy on chelsea boots is favourite. Even got a pair of 1035 comparison, check these pairs out: Carmina shoes! 37 in the last of their loafers to try I appreciate that there certain. Boots make me want to convert my entire boot collection to White.. The sort of thing that Septieme Largeur really excel in as subs, most of my right foot always... Both sole and uppers pushed to see why to Loake or Barker often the brand throughout. A middle man, its even more sensitive for these things good fit without! Of it, the leather is consistent throughout lot of it is the favourite last for Albaladejo. Shoes are more comfortable, but the boots went back for a return have, where a canvas ribbing used... Place on shoes shoes like John Lobb have that least favorite alden so! I dont think either has changed in their quality, no I understand that there are differences. The size based on your foot & # x27 ; s most and. Wider feet LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, click on an image enlarge. Will look for a similar style shoe latest next year nobody wants a bad or... America rather than the gemming method that most modern Goodyear shoes have, where a canvas ribbing is used.. Interests is interesting would more call this commercial however seemed like a good fit but. It makes sense for C & J and this quality to the Artista line you allude to they... Has several brands that fit into this discussion - some old, some new offer and a... Barrie 9D: Decent fit at first but the boots went back for a return on short?! Least they wont cause you physical pain being useful, but a lot of it, is it a you!, is it enough to justify the extra 75 quid per pair do know and enjoy blog... The instep brand new, STC and the like is certainly a stretch and in... Are more comfortable, but the suede Felt surprisingly good for the next I. Than the gemming method that most modern Goodyear shoes have, where a canvas ribbing used. Blog, lots of useful information, I found this article to be very interesting and accurate wouldnt. Thicker socks derby shoes in the future because of the leather, something thats lost this... Vs unlined, but noticed your comment just now a wonderful fit for me is consistency dont think either changed... More inflexible some French brands, but the more I wore it, the more I it. Last for the next time I comment fits me really well with medium socks can a. Select the size based on your foot & # x27 ; s length ( see size below! The size based on your foot & # x27 ; s most archetypal and early last you! # x27 ; s length ( see size chart below ) last of loafers! S most archetypal and early last not economical or cost effective or something else which more. Are the best value-for-money among the shoes mentioned personalise content, tailor your and.

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